Frequently Asked Questions

This is quite common on rifles that have been emptied of air. Quite often if they have been emptied for shipping or servicing the hammer/valve will be in a open position as a result the air being put into the tank will come straight through the gun. To fix this simply cock the gun (do not fire) then attempt filling whilst cocked.

If air continues to escape after performing this step contact an accredited gunsmith as you may need repair or warranty work carried out.

The primary case for an airgun not filling is most commonly the filling equipment at fault. Let's get one thing out of the way first. Make sure you have the correct filling equipment... This means a PCP Pump (Peak Pressure of at least 3000 PSI), a 300 BAR Dive Tank (scrap any old 232 BAR Tanks), or a High-Pressure Compressor (Not a Shop/Garage Compressor). If you have these proceed down. The primary issue is likely to be that either the fill probe has not been attached to the fill whip correctly or bonded o-rings have not been used correctly if using quick detach foster fittings. See our guide here for extra information: Quick Detach Filling

When using a pump ensure all of your bleed valves are closed and the fill line and filling probes are tight. They are normally 1/4 turn more than hand tight.

If using a tank ensure all bleed valves are closed, and whip and probes are tight. If the gun does not fill your tank may be empty. We recommend upgrading to Quick Detach Filling and then using a Test Plug to see the current air pressure. If your gun is filling part-way and not to the maximum, this is the current pressure in your tank - You need a tank refill. Remember if your tank does not have enough air to open the one-way valve in your gun, no air will move and the gun will only record what is in it.

For Compressors ensure bleed valves are closed and the correct air pressure setting has been selected. This is simple on digital devices however on gauge devices it may not be immediately obvious. Refer back to your compressor manual for more information.

Of all scopes sold per year, we see a handful full of them returned to us under the premise of it losing zero.

95% of the time this is down to your fitting of the scope.

You should ensure your mounts are properly located on the rail. If on spring guns make sure that the recoil pin is located in the recess of the guns.

Mounts should be tight but not over-tightened Ideally the tube should be tightened to 2NM and the Rail tightened to 4NM. Overtighting can damage the rail and scope. If you damage the scope with overtightening this is not covered by warranty. If it feels too tight, it probably is.

If your gun loses zero between storage and is stored in a soft case and then transported it is quite common that the scope or barrel can get knocked meaning a loss of zero. We always recommend a foam hard case for this reason.

If you have a dovetail mount on your rifle consider purchasing high-quality mounts or opting to use a rail converter to Picatinny. This is because many Dovetail scope mounts are made to a tolerance of 9-11mm. However, some manufacturers do not adhere to this and make some rails at 8mm and 13mm.

4% of the time zero loss is down to your gun. A loose barrel, use of multi-shot mags that squash or shave your pellet, the wrong pellets or even not accounting for your shooting conditions (such as a breeze down range) can cause your zero to change as you are shooting

The remaining 1% is customers simply not wanting the scope and claiming it is faulty. If you don't want your order, just let us know, we respond far better to honest customers than those claiming a product is faulty. Especially after we receive and waste time to test them to find no fault.

The first thing you have to ask yourself is have you tried every different pellet, weight and head size? As with fingerprints every barrel is different, you can have 2 of exactly the same guns next to each other and they will prefer different pellets.

So when you get your gun there are a few things you should be doing:

1. The barrel needs to be cleaned - Some high-end guns come with ultrasonically cleaned barrels, however, they may have begun to patina internally from exposure to moist air. other manufacturers don't really do it as they know that the prior buildup still means it will need to be cleaned by the end user; this means a build-up of patina, grease, oils, lead deposit or anything else can affect how a gun shoots. Be sure not to damage your gun as this will not be covered under warranty

2. Remove barrel attachments - This includes shrouds, barrel bands and silencers. These can inadvertently affect how your gun performs if they are incorrect or damaged. Removing them prior to group testing will give you a better gauge of if there is potentially a fault somewhere

3. lead your barrel in - This is where you shoot somewhere between 1000 and 2000 shots (depending on your gun) through your barrel using lead pellets. This prevents contaminant buildup and begins to leave lead deposits in your rifling to help with accuracy.

4. Pellet Testing - Finally, you should secure yourself a pellet sample pack and test each pellet with a different target at your zero distance (normally 25m) this will give you a broader spectrum of what pellets you can rule out and what your gun favours.

Scope Purpose Please remember It does not mean that the scope is broken or "not fit for purpose".

Should you have issues with your adjustment of your optic, this typically just means that the scope is not entirely perfect for your setup.

Scopes are generally manufactured for powder-burning guns or FAC guns, not sub-12 air rifles. As a result, they are designed to operate at a higher performance than most air gun shooters will ever use.

Elevation (Up-Down)

If you struggle to get elevation adjustment on your scope, you should do scope shimming or invest in adjustable mounts. See our Blog for more information: Adjustable Mounts or Shimming

Windage (Left-Right)

If your scope does not adjust enough on the windage (Left-Right) try centring the elevation of your scope then adjust your windage. This again is an argument to get adjustable mounts as you can use these to position the scope's elevation centrally. Then it allows you more windage adjustment, if you are using Dovetail mounts read on.

Quite often scopes have been wound to the end of their elevation when shooting at long or short distances, this clamps your windage adjustment as there is no movement left in the lens. This is very common in 1-inch scopes or scopes with illumination. If you find your windage adjustment does work after this we recommend investing in some adjustable mounts so the elevation can be zeroed closer to the center of the scope adjustment.

Correcting Mounting and Setup Issues

So how do we go about making sure your setup is correct? Remember your setup has loads of variables that are difficult to control, your rail, your pellet, your moderator and most importantly your barrel and its position, elevation, twist rate and length. Any number of these combinations can alter how your gun shoots and how it how your gun works.

The first thing is to ensure your mounts are correct for your setup. This is quite often why higher-end scopes do not come with mounts as it promotes the use of incorrect mount/scope/gun setups.

Incorrect mount use leads to scopes "running out of adjustment" as you try to compensate for the off-centre scope, this also leads to "Half-Mooning" whereby part of the lens of the scope appears to be blurry or dark.

So the best thing you can possibly do is try multiple different mounts and ensure you have the most suitable mounts for your gun. Sometimes the mount type "Picatinny or Dovetail" is not enough to get the right mounts. This testing is part of gun ownership as there is no out-of-the-box perfect setup.

Dovetail Mount Issues If your air rifle uses dovetail mounts, you may want to invest in either BKL mounts or upgrade your rifle to Picatinny using conversion rails.

Guns like BSA/GAMO, use a 13mm dovetail rail. This rail is not 100% compatible with Dovetail mounts as they are designed for the smaller 11mm rail.

Using 11mm mounts on a 13mm rail will cause canting and occasionally incorrect Yaw. This causes your scope to not line up with your gun's rail and therefore not in line with your gun's projectile, typically resulting in not enough adjustment in the windage (left-right).

Mount Orientation

A vast number of issues can be rectified by simply trying your mounts in different orientations. The best starting point is to set your scope up with these two mount rules. then adjust as necessary.

Always ensure that your mount orientation is correct:

1. The anti-recoil pin (on some dovetail mounts) mount should be towards the rear of the gun

2. Mount screws should be on the same side for both mounts (side screws all facing the same way) - If you have windage issues, try turning your mounts so the screws are on the other side of the gun. this is typically seen on Dovetail Rails

Still No Joy?

Here we come onto the unfortunate issue of faults. We see very few faults in modern optics only about a 0.4% failure rate. This does then mean quite often the mounting (as previously stated) is the issue or unfortunately the gun.

We always opt for the cheapest option first. Take your silencer off and make sure your mounts are facing the same way (locking screws on the same side) make sure that the mounts are correct and fitted correctly. If they are not gripping the rail correctly, you need to look at a different mount option. Then try again.

Still not worked, look to invest in higher quality mounts, for dovetail-railed gun owners, look at equal pull mounts like BKL's or opt to convert to Picatinny using permanent conversion rails.

So you have upgraded your mount system made sure you haven't skipped on your scope and checked all of this without silencers and single-loading pellets. Now it's time to start spending some money. You're going to need to get a gunsmith to check your barrel for bends using depth gauges. They may be able to straighten your barrel, however, it is often necessary to replace thicker barrels. This is likely to cost upwards of £200+Fitting. So seriously consider if it would just be better to get a new gun.

This is likely to be a few different causes:

If your gun has a silencer or moderator fitted, try removing this and then doing a few shots to see if the grouping is any better. Make sure to use the same pellets in each string of shots as a slight deviation in the pellet can cause fliers.

If this has fixed your issue, you have likely got a bent barrel or damaged silencer/moderator. If fitting a different moderator does not work, seek a gunsmith's advice on whether a barrel replacement is going to be financially viable.

The next option is a step that should always be tried when using a new rifle. As with fingerprints every barrel is different, you can have 2 of exactly the same guns next to each other and they will prefer different pellets.

So once your gun has leaded in, you should secure yourself a pellet sample pack and test each pellet with a different target at your zero distance (normally 25m) this will give you a broader spectrum of what pellets you can rule out and what your gun favors.

If you have already tested pellet samples and your gun was grouping well but now isn't, this is likely due to the leading process of the barrel. Using a barrel cleaning kit remove the lead from your barrel and start the leading process again. Please note your zero may change during this process.

Firstly this will sound like a telling off however the best method is prevention. If you ever think you may have double loaded, remove the magazine and fire your gun off into a clear area as this may well release the pellets jammed.

If it does not the next move would be to get yourself some wooden dowel and a small rubber mallet. Then with your gun safe and unloaded open the breech and start to tap the pellets out from the front of the barrel using the wooden dowel. Do not use a metal rod that is not designed for this task as this can damage the rifling of your barrel if you do not know what you are doing. Defiantly do not drill your barrel!

If you are not comfortable performing this task, take your gun to your local gunsmith and ask for them to remove the jam, they will normally charge a small amount for this service.

What if the dowel trick doesn't work? If the dowel trick will not shift the pellets, you have probably got way too many pellets in the barrel causing a serous blockage (this is often more than 5 pellets).

If you are competent in what you are doing (or don't mind damaging your gun if you arent competent) then it may be worth looking to get yourself a gun rod for jam clearing. These are what we use to clear pellets jammed in barrels. They do require patience and finesse as each pellet will have to be tapped, turned and pulled. These are not for just bashing through your barrel.

Next is the nuclear option. If you have used alloy pellets or slugs in a choked barrel. The only option is to surrender your barrel to a gunsmith who will have to melt the pellets out to avoid damaging the choak. This will cause discolouration and potentially damage to your rifling as it essentially shortens the life of your barrel. At this point it may be worth asking yourself if the cost of having this work done is more than just replacing your gun

If your gun is relatively new it is likely that the CO2 has not been seated correctly, you see where your CO2 meets your gun there is a small puncture probe that pierces the CO2 bulb surrounded by a flat silicon washer. For a CO2 gun to operate this needs to be a suitable seal. If the CO2 has not been inserted correctly either by not tightening the CO2 retainer enough or by the seals having any foreign objects on them such as dirt. This needs to be resolved before the gun will stop leaking.

Overtightening the retaining screw will cause damage such as cracking the CO2 well or flattening the seals and/or damaging the piercing probe.

Air coming out of the barrel can be the result of a low CO2 pressure. This is normally present when a CO2 gun has been shot beyond the operational pressures of the CO2 or in sub-optimum conditions such as cold or hot days. This can also become apparent is the gun has been left with a CO2 canister loaded as it can force the valve to stick open. This can be rectified by warming the gun up and firing the gun as it can loosen up the firing valve and allow it to seal.

If your gun is not holding gas over longer periods of time

CO2 guns inherently leak over time, this is because CO2 is temperature sensitive, so as the temperature changes throughout the day, the seals and CO2 change density, effectively opening and closing the valves and allowing the pressure to escape.

"Seals are like a road surface, as the water gets into them and then freezes, it expands causing a crack. Repeat this temperature change a few times and you have a pothole"

Preventing leaks

Never store your guns with CO2 bulbs in the gun. Always empty the canister and remove it.

Use a small drop of silicon oil on top of 1 out of every 5 CO2 bulbs to ensure the piercing probe does not go rusty.

Repairing severe leaks

If your gun is out of warranty or would like to repair it yourself (may void warranty) CO2 leaks can usually be repaired by replacing o-rings/seals around the affected area. Silicon rubber grease can also be used in a last-ditch attempt to revitalise seals if replacements are not available.

No. Shop compressors like those you can buy from machine mart are designed for a high CFM, this is the amount of air they can move to run power tools. As a result, their pressure is normally lower. The big shop compressors are capable of 150 psi MAX.

This isn't enough to even open the one-way valve in an airgun. High-pressure compressors are the opposite of a shop compressor, they move very little amounts of air but at a lot higher pressure. As they have to fill an airgun, HP Compressors are capable of running up to 4350 PSI, nearly 30 times the pressure a shop compressor can reach.

PCP (Pre-Charged Pneumatic) Airguns can experience a drop in air pressure for various reasons, and understanding whether it's a leak or a result of thermodynamic conditional loss according to the Ideal Gas Law is crucial.

Here's an explanation:

1. Temperature Effects:

PCP Airguns are sensitive to temperature changes. In cold weather, air becomes less dense, causing a pressure drop. Additionally, guns may exhibit a false drop in pressure due to the cooling of the air after filling. This can create the appearance of a leak when, in fact, it's a normal response to temperature fluctuations.

2. Steps to Identify the Issue:

To determine if the pressure loss is due to a leak or thermodynamics, follow these steps:

1. Fill the gun and let it cool. The cooling process after filling can lead to a falsely higher pressure reading.

2. Mark the gauge using masking tape and monitor if the needle drops when the gun cools.

3. Store the gun in a warm area overnight and observe any pressure changes. A small drop is normal due to atmospheric pressure changes.

3. Differentiating Between Leak and Thermodynamics:

• If the gauge reads full after a quick top-up of air but drops to a similar level as before filling, it may be a thermodynamic effect.

• If the pressure continues to drop significantly, more than 50 BAR, even in warm temperatures, it might indicate a pressure leak.

4. Action Steps:

• If the pressure loss is minimal and aligns with thermodynamic effects, it's likely not a leak.

• If there's a substantial drop in pressure, especially in warm conditions, consider seeking professional inspection by a gunsmith to identify and address potential leaks.

Understanding the interplay between temperature, air density, and pressure in PCP Airguns will help you differentiate between normal variations and issues that require attention from a qualified gunsmith.

Well, this is a statement you may hear some hardened shooters using. Now the biggest issue with it is that for an unsorted pellet (this means the pellet has not been weighed or sized and then sorted into the closest possible groups before testing) FPS deviations are expected to be in the realm of about 20-30 FPS deviation. A high-end Olympic target rifle such as Steyr, Anschutz or Feinwerkbau would have a consistency of 10-15 FPS deviation.

Now, these deviations happen due to a huge array of variables that are uncontrollable as the pellet leaves the barrel:

• What is the ambient air pressure and temperature in each section of air the pellet passes through (even inside the chronograph)

• Has the pellet or barrel got any burrs from manufacturing

• What is the temperature of the hammer and valve spring as they degrade when they get warm through the environment or use

• If your gun is regulated have you allowed enough time between each shot for the regulator to refresh and replenish with clean air cold air that is denser and allows the valves to work more freely

• How has the gun been filled? Is the air in the cylinder dry or does it have humidity which affects the expansion rate of the air.

Now, this all assumes you have the most accurate chronograph in the world, radar chronographs (such as FX chronographs) are convenient but are not hugely accurate as unlike a speed gun (on which they are based) they are trying to locate a tiny item getting even smaller. Particles in the air can disrupt speed reading easily and often. This also doesn't account for the Doppler effect, whereby if your radar is moving (say if it is secured onto your gun and you so much as breathe on it), the frequency of the waves changes giving a variation of reading.

Seeing as you have the perfect storm of using a cheap (seriously, have you seen how much a speed radar should be) radar mounted to a platform that isn't fixed and it is trying to measure a small, fast-moving item that is constantly being swarmed by particles in the air as it whizzes past them. This is why there is a 10% deviation when you are caught speeding in a car; simply because the measuring device is impossible to be 100% accurate. and that is with radar guns that can cost thousands; so what deviation is the sub £200 radar going to have?

Light-gate chronographs have a much smaller margin for error - but are not free of it. Many claim to have a deviation of 1% over 1000m/s however this is a bit of a non-falsifiable claim, as they are designed this way but very often never calibrated to this speed. Imagine ensuring something is moving at exactly 1000 m/s and then having to repeat that multiple times accurately. It cannot be done without having access to something you would find in CERN

These is all things that add up to this question that quite often has very little bounds on your shooting. The best way to test these is to do diagnostic shooting which involves clamping your gun, weighing your pellets, single loading them and allowing a refresh of the regulator between each shot at a target in an indoor space with a regulated airflow and temperature... the sort of environment seen at Mclarren.

If you have purchased a new gun, your barrel will not be leaded. So for the first 1000-2000 shots (using lead pellets), your gun will be "breaking in" in a process we call leading.

Leading is where you prepare your barrel to fire lead pellets. By firing lead pellets, you essentially polish your barrel to remove imperfections, contaminants and corrosion. Leading also adds a coating layer of lead, this acts as a seal as well as a lubricant for pellets.

You can use this leading time to zero your scope and learn to operate your gun. However, your zero and hold-over/hold-under points will change over time.

Once you have completed this process your gun will be operating at its optimum performance as it will now have a nice polished barrel with a coating of lead to prevent any contaminants from corroding your barrel.

If your gun ever starts shooting odd pellets, this is when you then clean your barrel using a pull-through kit to remove contaminants, burrs and channel blockages. You then must start the leading process again

Basically speaking a regulated gun allows for a more consistent shot. A regulator controls the amount of air moving from the tank into the plenum (the chamber that holds air used to fire a single shot)

Once the valve is opened with the hammer strike, the air within this plenum chamber escapes. If we control the air pressure within the plenum, we can use the same amount of air for each shot resulting in a more accurate gun. We can also use this to control waste air, meaning that we use the correct amount of air per shot without more air escaping when the projectile has exited the barrel. The byproduct of this is that a regulated gun tends to have a higher shot count than a non-regulated gun.

The downside of a regulated gun is reliability. A regulator is a complicated set of springs that are subject to temperature and physical damage. So if you allow water into your gun (by using un-dried/moist air) it can cause rusting of the springs that result in failure. A similar failure to dropping the gun.

Pros and cons of regulated guns:

Pros:

+ More consistent shot

+ Lower FPS spread

+ Higher Shot Count

Cons:

- An extra point of failure if not looked after

- Higher initial expense

- Needs the use of a dry air pump to fill safely

Welcome to the world of really confusing numbers and calculations. You see there isn't exactly a great way of calculating this as it involves a huge amount of variables with some Physics, thermodynamics and fluid dynamics calculations all required. So here is a handy calculator for you: Tank Fill Calculator Once you have your number of fills. Times this by your gun's shot count to get your number of shots.

Can't be bothered to do it yourself?

Go with this as a guide:

80-100 shots per litre for a non-regulated gun

120-170 shots per litre for a regulated gun

There are multiple opinions on the answer to this question.

Theory 1: Cleaning before and after shooting

One says that you should clean your barrel before and after shooting using a suitable cleaning kit and a safe barrel cleaner to prevent lead deposits and corrosion during and after the shooting process. In theory, this would give you the most accurate pure steel contact with your barrel meaning the rifling can spin the pellet as intended.

Reasons against Theory 1:

There are some holes in this theory though. Namely down to the use of lead deposits in the barrel.

You see lead does not rust and also has a low friction coefficient meaning it almost acts as a lubricant.

Theory 2: Let lead build

By having a coating of lead on your barrel, you prevent internal corrosion thanks to the lead's ability to stave off corrosion longer than steel. You also have the added benefit of having a lubricant allowing for your pellet to reach a better speed when used in conjunction with the tighter seal due to the lead deposits. In theory, this increases your power output and allows for the pellet to travel throughout its powered range (inside the barrel) more efficiently, leaving the barrel cleanly.

Reasons against Theory 2:

There is the thought that having 0.01mm of lead on the inside surface of your barrel, may interrupt the intrinsic ideals of rifling and that perhaps the pellet will not be spun as quickly as intended. This may well hold some weight as a lead deposit over time can grow when combined with microscopic corrosion on the steel surface that perhaps was never cleaned or after a particularly wet shoot, it simply found a part of the barrel that did not receive its coating.

Theory 3 - Our recommendation: Reactive Cleaning

We have always subscribed to the recitative maintenance theory with airguns. By which you set your gun up and leave it alone until it does something unexpected. Then you investigate and correct accordingly.

So when we are talking about accuracy and barrel cleaning we recommend:

1. Clean your barrel thoroughly and carefully with a pull-through and suitable cleaning fluid this removes manufacturing oils and debris that the leading process may bind to causing an uneven coating - Some high-end manufacturers already use ultrasonic cleaners after manufacturer to remove this, however, you can never be sure about corrosion buildup so a barrel clean is recommended.

2. As soon as it is clean, start the leading process, if you wait too long to do this after cleaning the steel will begin to oxidise as there is no protection without the oil or lead. If you have cleaned the gun and do not have time or ability to lead the gun. Use Airgun Oil (avoid rubber and anodised metal) or Silicon Oil (if you are unsure) to recoat the steel barrel. You will need to clean off before starting the leading process.

3. After the Leading process (500-2000 shots without cleaning) your gun will be operating at its peak performance, this is where you start pellet testing to find your most accurate pellet with your gun.

4. Once you have found your gun's favourite pellet, stick with it. If it ever deviates from what was originally tested make sure nothing else has changed before then cleaning your barrel and starting the process again.

5. Once you have leaded in for the 2nd time you may find that the original pellet your gun liked may have changed, so pellet testing may be required once more

Important notes

• Always ensure you have not accidentally damaged your breach seal either by using incorrect cleaning rods or by introducing solvent to it - Breach seals are consumable items and this would not be covered in your warranty.

• Avoid the use of solvent-based cleaners unless heavily leaded as this can cause damage to the microstructure of steel as well as the rubber seals in the gun.

• We recommend a pull though instead of rods. Rods can be more effective for heavy lead deposits and corrosion but can damage the rifling if done incorrectly.

• Just because your new gun doesn't group does not mean its faulty, it likely needs leading in and pellet testing

This is quite possibly due to a multitude of things.

Let's start with the most obvious... Price. If you have spent less than £200 on a scope, the chances are it is not going to have fully multi-coated optics, it's not going to have more than 70% light transmission and it's also not likely to have high-quality glass. If this is the case, the harsh reality of this is that you have gotten what you paid for. Try upgrading your scope. A good rule of thumb is to spend half the value of the gun again on the scope down to £200.

Let's move on to the next most common issue... Mounting.

As we described in our "I can't get enough adjustment" FAQ and as well in our Scope Shimming Vs Adjustable Mounts Blog. The chances are that you have got incorrect mounts for your gun, or you have fitted them incorrectly.

Let's clear one thing up, you need to get the correct mounts for your gun. Even if this costs you more money! - Like your car tyres are the only thing connecting your car to the thing it drives on (the road) and therefore incorrect tyres mean a poor drive.

Your scope mounts connect you to your gun, incorrect mounts mean that you are simply giving yourself a handicap when using your gun. It is all too easy to get swept up in "Free mounts" However if they aren't correct you aren't going to get the right result and you may need to adjust your scope to the absolute ends of its adjustment.

So Adjustment.

Yes, adjustment, if you are at the end of your adjustment as mentioned above and in the "I can't get enough adjustment" FAQ. You're not going to get the results you expected. This is typically down to your mounts or your gun. If your guns rail and barrel do not line up, or perhaps you have a bent barrel you have no hope without a gunsmith's help. If they do line up, you will need to look at your mounts.

If your planes don't align (your scope, rail and barrel direction), you will have to adjust your scope. As a good rule, your scope should be at the centre of its adjustment. If it's not, you may have the incorrect mounts. This of course isn't always true. Silencers, pellet choice, crosswinds and even temperature all have an effect on your projectile's trajectory. However, if you have adjusted your scope to the end of its adjustment you start looking through the fringe of the lens. Have you ever tried to look through a bottle of water? Notice the image changes drastically just by the position you're looking at - this is the same for lenses. If you look through their fringe, you will get blurring, dispersion and "half mooning" This is where it looks like you cannot see a perfect circle or that you are looking at the reticle through a tunnel (either that or you are too close/far away)

Difference between correct scope plane and incorrect scope plane

So how do we fix this?

We always opt for the cheapest option first. Take your silencer off and make sure your mounts are facing the same way (locking screws on the same side) make sure that the mounts are correct and fitted correctly. If they are not gripping the rail correctly, you need to look at a different mount option. Then try again. Still not worked, look to invest in higher quality mounts, for dovetail-railed gun owners, look at equal pull mounts like BKL's or opt to convert to Picatinny using permanent conversion rails.

So you have upgraded your mount system made sure you haven't skipped on your scope and checked all of this without silencers and single-loading pellets. Now it's time to start spending some money. You're going to need to get a gunsmith to check your barrel for bends using depth gauges. They may be able to straighten your barrel, however, it is often necessary to replace thicker barrels. This is likely to cost upwards of £200+Fitting. So seriously consider if it would just be better to get a new gun.

Airgun power is a bit of a sore subject in the industry. Every shooter wants to have the most powerful thing they can get without breaking the law - although the law doesn't stop some people.

The UK law states that an unlicenced (low-power) air gun:

• CANNOT be over 12ft/lb

• NOR can it have the potential to be altered easily or without expert knowledge.

This means that if the police come to test your gun they will do a few things:

• They WILL use different pellets

• If your gun has adjustable power and can easily be adjusted. The police adjust it.

Remember the POLICE WILL TRY AND MAKE YOUR GUN ILLEGAL to prove that it is possible for your gun to easily be made illegal. Therefore ALL UK SPEC GUNS ARE SET TO A MAXIMUM OF 16 JOULES (11.8ft/lb).

If a gun is produced and is over 13.5 Joules (10 ft/lb) on midweight pellets then it is classed as being "Fit For Purpose".

The reason for this lower-than-legal power is that quite often a gun can spike on power with different-weight pellets.

Now instead of manufacturers testing their guns on every pellet, they develop the gun to work with most pellets without breaking the law. As if your gun is low on power try a different-weight pellet. Always weigh pellets when inputting into calculators/chronographs, don't just use what it says on the tin. Now, this all assumes you have the most accurate chronograph in the world, radar chronographs (such as FX chronographs) are convenient but are not hugely accurate as unlike a speed gun (on which they are based) they are trying to locate a small item getting even smaller. Particles in the air can disrupt speed reading easily and often. This is why there is a 10% deviation when you are caught speeding in a car. simply because the measuring device is impossible to be 100% accurate

Light-gate chronographs have a smaller margin for error but are not free of it. Many claim to have a deviation of 1% over 1000m/s however this is a bit of a non-falsifiable claim, as they are designed this way but very often never calibrated to this speed. Imagine ensuring something is moving at exactly 1000 m/s and then having to repeat that multiple times accurately. It cannot be done without having access to something you would find in CERN

The best way to test these is to do diagnostic shooting which involves firstly getting a good chronograph (expect to pay in the region of £200-£300 for a basic diagnostic chronoscope). You then need to find a way to clamp your gun to avoid distance variation (energy at the muzzle and 300mm from the muzzle will see different power levels). Now source an accurate weighing scale to weigh your pellets and then sort them. With your weighed and sorted pellets fed into an accurate chronoscope, you should now be single-loading them as magazine and pellet probes can mis-shape your pellet causing power and accuracy issues. If you have a regulated gun you also need to allow a refresh of the regulator between each shot as regulators can be slow to refill and power deviation will occur here. You also need to operate in an indoor space with no wind and with adequate temperature control... the sort of environment seen at Mclarren. Your gun doesn't need to be powerful to be accurate you just need to find the right pellet. Olympic Target airguns are 8 Joules (5.9 ft/lb) and they do a great job.

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**FAQ: Why is My Airgun Not Powerful?**

**Q1: Why does my airgun seem less powerful than expected?**

A: Airgun power can be a complex issue due to legal constraints and the nature of pellet weights. In the UK, airguns must not exceed 12ft/lb, and adjustments that can easily render them illegal are prohibited. Police testing involves using different pellets and adjusting power if applicable.

**Q2: Why are UK-spec guns limited to 16 Joules (11.8ft/lb)?**

A: UK-spec guns are capped at 16 Joules to ensure compliance with the law. If a gun exceeds 13.5 Joules (10 ft/lb) with midweight pellets, it is considered "Fit For Purpose" under legal standards. Manufacturers aim for a power level that accommodates most pellets without breaking the law.

**Q3: Can pellet weight affect airgun power readings?**

A: Yes, different-weight pellets can influence power levels. Manufacturers may not test every pellet type, leading to variations. If your gun seems low on power, try experimenting with different-weight pellets. Always weigh pellets when using calculators or chronographs, as discrepancies can occur.

**Q4: How accurate are chronographs in measuring airgun power?**

A: Chronographs, whether radar or light-gate, have inherent limitations. Radar chronographs can be disrupted by particles in the air, leading to deviations. Light-gate chronographs claim low deviations, but calibration challenges may impact accuracy. Diagnostic shooting with a well-calibrated chronoscope and controlled conditions is recommended for accurate readings.

**Q5: Can lightweight pellets impact airgun performance?**

A: Yes, using lightweight pellets designed for springers may not provide consistent air delivery in PCP guns. Tuning for lightweight pellets to achieve a specific power level might exceed legal limits with heavier pellets. Managing expectations regarding pellet choice is crucial to ensure legal compliance.

**Q6: How should I test my airgun's power accurately?**

A: For precise testing, invest in a good chronograph and create a controlled environment for diagnostic shooting. Clamp your gun to avoid distance variations, use an accurate weighing scale for pellets, and single-load them to avoid deformities. Regulated guns require time between shots for regulator refresh. Outdoor conditions, wind, and temperature control should be minimized for accurate results.

**Q7: Can accurate pellets compensate for lower airgun power?**

A: Absolutely. Accuracy is not solely dependent on power. Olympic target airguns, for example, operate at 8 Joules (5.9 ft/lb) and deliver exceptional accuracy. Finding the right pellet for your gun is crucial for achieving optimal performance within legal limits.

**Q8: What if I receive a low power claim response from the manufacturer?**

A: If the manufacturer asserts that the firearm was rigorously tested and is functioning correctly and legally, consider the impact of using lightweight pellets. Manufacturers may tune guns for specific pellets to stay within legal limits, and using different pellets may yield varying results. Manage expectations and choose pellets that align with the gun's tuning for legal compliance.

Q: How do MOA and MRAD differ, and why might MRAD be preferred?** A: Minute of Angle (MOA) and Milliradian (MRAD) are angular measurement units used in rifle scopes. MRAD, being metric, offers distinct advantages. Q: Why choose MRAD over MOA for ranging and adjustments? A: MRAD simplifies calculations with its consistent metric system. Ranging is notably easier as 1 mill equals 10 clicks, providing a straightforward approach. In contrast, MOA can involve varying click values (e.g., 4, 8 clicks per MOA), making calculations less intuitive and potentially error-prone. Q: Are there practical advantages to using MRAD scopes? A: Absolutely. MRAD's standardization in increments of 10 clicks per mill offers a more logical and user-friendly experience. This consistency aids precision, simplifies adjustments, and reduces the risk of confusion during critical moments. Q: What about parallax adjustment in MRAD scopes? A: While many scopes currently use yards for parallax adjustment, there's an anticipated industry shift towards the universal metric system. Expect future designs to embrace meters, aligning with the global push for standardization and modernization within the shooting community.

Assuming you have a PCP (Pre-Charged Pneumatic) or HPA (High-Pressure Air) airgun, there are three primary methods to fill it:

1. Stirrup Pump:

• Pros: This method is cost-effective and straightforward. You don't need any special equipment other than the pump itself.

• Cons: It can be physically demanding and tiring, especially for those who are not used to it. It may require more effort to achieve the desired pressure.

2. Air Tank:

• Pros: Using an air tank is a quick and efficient way to fill your PCP or HPA airgun. It provides excellent value for those who use their airgun frequently.

• Cons: Air tanks can be relatively heavy, which may limit portability. Additionally, they need periodic testing every 5 years to ensure safety.

3. High-Pressure Air Compressor:

• Pros: High-pressure air compressors are incredibly convenient and time-saving. They offer an efficient way to fill your airgun.

• Cons: The initial investment can be relatively expensive, but if you use your airgun regularly, it can be a worthwhile investment in the long run.

It's worth noting that all of these methods can be fitted with Quick Detach (Foster) Fittings for ease of use. In fact, some airguns may already come with these more modern couplings as standard. These fittings make the process of connecting and disconnecting your air source much simpler and more user-friendly.

Select the method that best suits your needs, budget, and preferences to enjoy uninterrupted shooting with your PCP or HPA airgun.

Storage

Always ensure that your gun is not stored with a CO2 Capsule installed as this can compress your gun's internal seals causing rapid leaking - CO2 Guns do empty over time.

Usage

As CO2 is quite a volatile gas it is common for the gun to leak should temperature conditions change.

As temperature change affects CO2 so much, we recommend not storing your gun in hot areas or using it in cold environments. this will also ensure your gun lasts longer and performs better.

Only use CO2 with lubricants, we recommend UMAREX branded CO2

Maintenance

For every 5-20 CO2 capsules or just before storage, we recommend applying a drop of silicon oil to the top of the CO2 capsule before inserting, this lubricates and protects the piercing nozzle and prevents corrosion.

Do Not use Silicon Spray, this deposits too much oil into the area. Oil in high quantity can increase adhesion negating the reason for applying it in the first place. Trust us a little goes a long way.

Overuse of oil can have an adverse effect on your CO2 gun such as:

• Jammed CO2 Cartridges in CO2 Chambers where the oil creates a strong vacuum resulting in difficulty in removing CO2 Capsules from the gun

• Misfiring can occur due to wear as a result of oil pooling in areas where there is too much oil being used to simply coat surfaces. This results in compression of the oil causing damage and adverse wear to parts internally

• Accuracy issues can occur if silicon oil makes its way into the barrel, coats hop-ups and barrel breaches. This is where friction is required for the gun to function and adding lubricant results in issues

Well this is the question of the industry... The answer is not simple as you would like; there are many factors that will dictate which calibre you would want. Below is a list of strengths and weaknesses of both calibres at sub 12 foot-pound

.177

Strengths

• Travels faster and flatter - This means .177 is geared towards target shooting as there is less of an arc and the pellet travels further overall.

• Cheaper per pellet.

• Commonly more shots in a multi-shot magazine as more can fit in.

Weaknesses

• Not as efficient at dispatching quarry, head-shots are needed in most cases for a clean shot.

• A lower weight results in a higher wind influence meaning long range shooting (~50m) needs skill to shoot.

• Smaller pellet means they can be fiddly to load for those with dexterity issues.

• Lower shot count compared to .22 pellets as more air is required to achieve the same power of a .22 pellet.

.22

Strengths

• Larger projectile means energy can transfer more efficiently to the target, this means .22 is better designed for pest control where headshots are harder.

• Larger pellet is easier to handle for those with dexterity issues.

• heavier pellet is more resistant to wind influence meaning long rage shots (~40m) are easier to make.

Weaknesses

• larger and heavier muntion is subject to air resistance meaning pellet moves slower and has a greater arc leading to shorter range shots.

• Pellet Arc normally means high magnification scopes are inefficient as pellet drops out of range.

• Expensive per pellet.

• Less pellets per mag due to larger size.

in general the answer to this question is No, your scope is not likely to be faulty. If your scope doesn't appear to respond when you adjust the windage or elevation turrets, there are several factors to consider:

1. Correct Adjustment Technique: Firstly, ensure you are adjusting the turrets correctly. Some tactical turrets require a specific method for adjustment. Typically, you need to pull up the turret, make the adjustment, and then lock it back down. It's essential to follow the manufacturer's instructions for your specific scope model. Additionally, make sure that any retaining screws on the turrets are securely fastened before attempting adjustments. Some scopes may have a single top screw, while others may feature several grub screws around the turret's perimeter.

2. Lack of Visible Movement: On many higher-end scopes, you may not visually see the reticle moving when you adjust the turrets. This is especially true for scopes with etched reticles. In these scopes, the lens itself moves to bend light around the reticle. The reticle's position won't visibly change to your eye, but it will impact your shots when you fire.

3. Limitations of Adjustment: If you've reached the maximum adjustment range on one turret (either windage or elevation), the other turret may not be able to turn further. This limitation occurs because the lens can't move without impacting the scope body. Forcing the non-adjusting turret can cause damage. To resolve this issue, return the turret that has reached its limit to the middle of its adjustment range. This should allow the previously stuck turret to move. If this problem persists, consider using adjustable mounts or shimming your scope to compensate for your firearm's barrel position.

4. Possible Mount or Rail Issues: If the top turret (elevation) isn't moving due to the windage turret being too far adjusted, you may need to reconfigure or change your scope mounts or invest in a rail conversion. Incorrect mounting can affect the scope's ability to adjust properly.

5. Consult a Gunsmith: If none of the above solutions resolves the issue with your scope's windage or elevation adjustment, it's advisable to consult a gunsmith. There could be underlying problems with your firearm, such as a bent or misaligned barrel or an issue with the gun's rail. A gunsmith can diagnose and address these issues professionally.

In summary, when facing issues with your scope's turret adjustments, ensure you are using the correct technique, be aware that some scopes do not visibly show reticle movement, and consider the limitations of turret adjustments in relation to your gun. If problems persist, consult a gunsmith for a thorough assessment and potential solutions.

Getting the torque just right on your scope mounts is crucial for optimal performance and to prevent damage. While the concept of "finger tight" is a good starting point, the use of tools like an allen key introduces a leverage factor, meaning what feels 'finger tight' might actually be tighter than intended.

When tightening your scope mounts, it's important to strike a balance. Over-tightening can lead to irreversible damage, causing issues like difficulty in adjusting parallax or zoom functions. Unfortunately, many manufacturers don't provide specific torque settings, leaving users in the dark.

A reliable guideline to follow is the "2 on top; double it for the rail" rule. This translates to applying 2 Newton meters (NM) of torque (equivalent to 1.475 foot-pounds or 17.7 inch-pounds) on the screws securing your scope to the mount. Then, double that torque to 4 NM (2.95 foot-pounds or 35.4 inch-pounds) for the screws attaching the mount to the gun's rail.

By adhering to this rule of thumb, you can ensure your scope is securely mounted without risking damage due to excessive torque.

What is a Red Dot / Illuminated Reticle?

A red dot sight and an illuminated reticle are similar optics that use an illuminated section to assist with shooting. Both provide a bright aiming point, enhancing target acquisition and visibility in various lighting conditions.

What are the Pros of Using Red Dot / Illuminated Reticles?

• Rapid Target Acquisition: The illuminated reticle provides a clear and bright aiming point, allowing for quick target acquisition.

• Improved Visibility in Low Light: The illumination helps the reticle stand out against dark backgrounds, making it easier to aim in low-light environments.

• Versatility: Suitable for various shooting activities including hunting, tactical shooting, and competitive shooting.

What are the Cons of Using Red Dot / Illuminated Reticles?

• Complexity and Durability: These systems are more complex and can be affected by vibrations and shocks, potentially reducing their lifespan.

• Eye Condition Sensitivity: Users with certain eye conditions, such as astigmatism, may find it difficult to use red dot sights effectively.

Why Does My Red Dot Look Blurry?

Blurry Red Dot Symptoms:

A blurry dot may look like a comma or starburst. This could be due to an astigmatism or improper optic alignment.

• Astigmatism: Caused by an irregular cornea, leading to multiple focal points in the eye and a blurred dot.

• Improper Alignment: A moving comma-shaped smear can result from not looking through the optic at the correct angle, often due to improper mounting or cheek weld.

• Faulty Optic: If the dot appears the same in photos or through backup sights, the optic itself may be defective.

Diagnosing the Problem:

To determine if the issue is with your eyes or the optic, you can:

1. Take a picture of the dot with the front lens covered.

2. Look through backup iron sights.

3. Rotate the optic while keeping the dot on target to see if the blur moves with the optic.

How Do Red Dot Sights Affect Users with Eye Conditions?

Astigmatism Issues:

Astigmatism is an imperfection in the curvature of the cornea, causing blurred or distorted vision. This can make the red dot appear blurry, like a starburst or multiple dots instead of a single, clear dot.

Solutions for Astigmatism:

1. Use lower brightness settings.

2. Focus on the target rather than the dot.

3. Use a peep sight in conjunction with the red dot.

4. Get corrective lenses or polarized sunglasses.

5. Consider alternative optics like larger MOA red dots, holographic sights, or prismatic sights.

How to Cope with Astigmatism?

• Optical Adjustments:

• Try using lower brightness settings and focusing on the target.

• Use backup peep sights to reduce light intake and see the dot's true shape.

• Alternative Optics:

• Larger MOA red dots, holographic sights, or prismatic sights can minimize the blurring effect.

• Professional Help:

• Visit an optometrist for an updated prescription if vision issues persist.

• Testing Before Purchase:

• Test various sights at a local gun shop to find the best fit for your vision needs.

By understanding these aspects of red dot/illuminated reticles, you can make a more informed choice about their use and how to address any issues related to eye conditions.

Q1: Why do spring air rifles and blowback replicas require special optics considerations?

A1: Spring air rifles and blowback replicas are classed as recoiling guns, similar to powder burners (actual bullet guns including rimfire and centerfire). The recoil produced by these guns necessitates optics that can withstand significant vibration and impact forces.

Q2: Are wire reticle scopes suitable for high-recoiling guns?

A2: No, wire reticle scopes are not 100% rated for high-recoiling guns or springers. The vibration from recoil can cause the wire reticle to break or crack over time. It's recommended to use scopes with etched reticles, as they are more durable and less prone to damage from recoil.

Q3: Does a factory-included scope mean it is rated for my gun?

A3: Not necessarily. Factory-included scopes are often designed to get you started but may not be rated for the recoil of your gun. These scopes are typically intended for initial use, with the expectation that they will be replaced after a year or two of shooting.

Q4: Are all etched reticle scopes rated for recoiling guns?

A4: No, some etched reticle scopes are not rated for recoiling guns due to the construction of their turrets. Without disassembling the scope, it can be difficult to determine if the turrets can handle the recoil. Opt for optics rated for a minimum of 700g drop or with a recoil rating of .22LR minimum for springers. For powder burners, ensure the scope is rated up to 1000g or matches the caliber rating of your firearm.

Q5: Can economy scope mounts be used on high-recoiling guns?

A5: Economy scope mounts (typically costing below £70) may suffer from creep or fragility on high-recoiling guns. To prevent this, you can use a recoil arrester block at the mount-to-rail contact point. However, investing in higher-quality mounts is recommended for better performance and durability.

Q6: What torque settings should I use for mounting scopes on recoiling guns?

A6: For recoiling guns, it is essential to torque the mounts correctly:

• For top screws connecting to the scope tube, use 2NM of torque.

• For bottom screws connecting the mounts to the rail, use 4NM of torque.

Higher-end mounts usually display the recommended torque settings, while budget mounts may not.

Q7: What should I do if I'm still having scope issues despite following these guidelines?

A7: If you continue to experience issues with your scope or mounts, there may be other factors affecting accuracy. Consider reading through our Accuracy FAQ for additional troubleshooting tips and solutions.

Experiencing accuracy issues with your gun can be frustrating. Here are some common causes and steps you can take to diagnose and fix the problem:

Possible Causes and Solutions:

1. Remove Barrel Attachments:

• Remove shrouds, barrel bands, and silencers before group testing. These can affect performance if incorrect or damaged. Testing without these attachments helps identify potential faults.

2. Check Silencer or Moderator:

• If your gun has a silencer or moderator fitted, try removing it and then shooting a few groups to see if the accuracy improves.

• Use the same pellets in each string of shots, as slight variations can cause flyers.

• If removing the silencer/moderator fixes the issue, you may have a bent barrel or a damaged silencer/moderator. Try fitting a different moderator. If the problem persists, consult a gunsmith about a possible barrel replacement.

3. Scope Compatibility and Mounting:

• If you are using a high-recoiling gun such as a springer or powder burner (centerfire/rimfire) Ensure your scope is rated for high-recoiling guns, such as springers or powder burners. Wire reticle scopes are not ideal, as they can break under recoil. Opt for etched reticle scopes designed for recoiling guns and read this Mounting Scopes on Recoiling Guns FAQ for more help

• Check that your mounts are high-quality and securely torqued. Economy mounts (typically costing below £70) may suffer from creep or fragility. Use a recoil arrester block if necessary and ensure proper torque settings (2NM for top screws, 4NM for bottom screws).

4. Lead Your Barrel In:

• Shoot between 1000 and 2000 shots through your barrel using lead pellets. This process prevents contaminant buildup and helps leave lead deposits in your rifling for improved accuracy.

5. Pellet Compatibility:

• Every barrel is unique, even on identical guns. Testing different pellets is crucial to find what your gun prefers.

• After leading in the barrel, use a pellet sample pack to test various pellets. Shoot each type at your zero distance (typically 25m) to identify which pellets group best.

6. Barrel Cleaning:

• If your gun was grouping well but now isn’t, it may need cleaning. Use a barrel cleaning kit to remove lead deposits, then lead the barrel in again. Note that your zero may change during this process.

Ultimate Conclusion:

Is It Me?

• Often, guns are more accurate than the shooter. Consider whether your stance, grip, breathing, positioning, trigger use, pulse, eyesight, and steadiness might be affecting your accuracy. Improving your shooting technique can significantly enhance your gun's performance.

By following these steps, you can diagnose and improve the accuracy of your gun, ensuring a more enjoyable and precise shooting experience.

Yes — if you're using any kind of compressed air bottle or cylinder, it’s your responsibility to keep it tested and safe. That said, the rules, costs, and testing requirements depend on the type and size of tank you're using. And we’ll be honest: this is one of the most confusing grey areas in the airgun and airsoft world.

Let’s break it down:

Small HPA Bottles (Under 1L) – Airsoft, Paintball, or Rifle-Mounted Cylinders

These compact carbon fibre or aluminium tanks (typically 0.2L to 1L) often have stamped test dates — but getting them re-tested can be harder than it’s worth.

• Yes, technically they should be tested — especially carbon fibre or composite types with expiry markings.

• No, most people don’t bother — not because it's safe, but because:

  • Testing can cost more than a replacement bottle

  • Few places actually offer the service for small bottles

  • Many airsoft/airgun cylinders are not testable by conventional means

So, what happens when they’re out of date?

• A dive shop or fill station should refuse to fill it

• If you’re filling at home from a larger, in-date tank, you’re assuming the risk

• We don’t recommend this, but we’re aware many users do it to avoid high testing or replacement costs

Best practice? Replace small tanks when they reach their expiry date. If you really want to test one, we recommend Cylinder Testing Station (CTS) — they’ll tell you if it’s feasible, legal, and worth doing.

Dive Tanks / Main Fill Cylinders (3L to 12L+)

These are your main fill stations for PCP airguns and need to be treated properly. Think of them like tyres — fine until they’re not, and then you’ve got a serious problem.

• Hydrostatic Testing is required every 5 years for airgun use

• If you use it for diving, that interval drops to every 2.5 years

• Fill stations and dive shops will check the stamp before filling

• If yours is overdue, they’ll (rightfully) refuse service

Out-of-date tanks can fail catastrophically — that means serious injuries, not just broken kit. If your bottle’s past its stamped test date, don’t take chances.

🛠️ Where Can I Get My Tank or Rifle Cylinder Tested?

We recommend Cylinder Testing Station (CTS) — they handle:

• Aluminium, steel, and carbon fibre bottles (up to 500 BAR)

• Most thread types: M25, M18, DIN, A-Clamp, etc.

• Internal cleaning, shot blasting, and O2 cleaning for breathing cylinders

• Even compressor testing and servicing if you run your own kit

Their mail-in service is simple and fast, and you’ll get your tank back with a fresh test stamp and peace of mind.

📦 View CTS mail-in testing info here →

Need help identifying your bottle type or what’s worth testing? Drop us an email and we’ll walk you through it — no pressure (pun intended).